My (Unabridged) Guide to Hong Kong
Bright lights, skyscrapers, temples, hiking, endless amounts of dim sum…Hong Kong has so much to see, do, and taste! A few days in Hong Kong is just enough time to get a glimpse into all this dynamic city has to offer. It will certainly leave you wanting more, but Hong Kong’s density makes it possible to accomplish a lot in a short amount of time. Read on for my tips and recommendations for your visit to Hong Kong.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
From Hong Kong International Airport, easiest ways to get to the city are:
Taxi - 35-40 minutes to HK Island for HKD $300-HKD $500 ($40-$60 USD)
HK Express (train) - 25 minutes and takes you directly to Central for HKD $115 ($15 USD). Trains run every 10-15 minutes from approximately 6:00 am to 12:45 am (give or take a few minutes).
** Octopus Card - Depending on where you’re staying and the areas you will be visiting, you may want to consider purchasing an Octopus Card during your visit. This is a prepaid card you can use for the HK Express as well as the bus and MTR (subway). You pay a HKD $50 deposit to get the card, which you will get back upon returning the card.
MTR - Excellent subway system that runs primarily along the north side of the island.
TAXI - Taxis are cheap and easy to come by, but be sure you have cash as they don’t accept credit cards! Many taxi drivers don’t speak English, so make sure you have an address or know of a main area/establishment close to your destination.
BUS - The bus system is extensive and you can get most places on the island via the yellow or green buses. The yellow buses are more “civilized” - they stop at every designated stop and offer a pleasant and quiet ride. The green buses, conversely, are one wild ride! You have to flag them down to make them stop, the ride is usually quite jerky, and you have to yell “baaaa si jam!” to alert the driver you want to get off. It’s an adventure and happens to one of my favorite modes of transit, given the flexibility and sheer entertainment value.
DING-DING (double-decker tram) - Incredibly cheap way to get around and great way to see the island, albeit more slowly. The ding-dings primarily run east to west on the north side of the island (similar to the MTR, but with more stops). There is also a one-hour tramOramic tour on a 1920’s style open top tram that runs a few times daily from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay (or vice versa).
UBER - Yes, there is Uber in Hong Kong, but be wary because sometimes it can cost two or three times what a taxi would cost!
** Download the Moovit app, which provides the best public transit for your desired route.
THINGS TO DO
CENTRAL - A walk around Central is a must on a visit to Hong Kong. Central is Hong Kong’s primary downtown business district full of high-end retail, delicious (although expensive) restaurants and swanky bars.
SOUTH SIDE - A visit to the south side of the island is high on my list of recommendations, especially if the weather is even relatively nice. The south side is known to be more laid back and a tad more spacious (if such a word can be used to describe any aspect of Hong Kong). This is where you will find the main beaches - namely Deep Water Bay, Repulse Bay, Stanley, and Tai Tam. Stanley has a fun outdoor market, which is an excellent place to shop for small goods and souvenirs. Nearby Repulse Bay is a great spot to grab some food, drinks and relax on the beach.
CAUSEWAY BAY - If you are into shopping, this is the destination for you. Causeway Bay is a consumer’s dream. There are numerous malls comprising endless stores and let’s not forget SOGO - the 19 story department store. If possible, I recommend exploring Causeway during the week as the weekends there can be quite hectic.
TIAN TAN BUDDHA (Big Buddha) - On Lantau Island (where the airport is located), you can venture to the Big Buddha. Take the MTR Tung Chung (orange) Line all the way to the end where you board the Ngong Ping cable cars. These gondolas will take you on an incredible 30 minute (3.5 mile) ride through the mountains to Ngong Ping Village, where you can walk to the Big Buddha. I recommend reserving a crystal cabin cable car so you can see through the floor on your ride!
MID-LEVELS ESCALATORS - Running all the way from Central to the Mid-levels, you will find the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world. From start to finish the system comprises 18 escalators and three inclined moving walkways. It’s a popular mode of transit (and happens to be my commute!) and offers a fun way to explore part of the island without having to walk straight uphill!
KOWLOON - Across Victoria Harbour lies Kowloon, the northern part of Hong Kong which is situated adjacent to Mainland China. Kowloon Peninsula has a very different feel from Hong Kong Island and is a great place to explore, shop, and eat. There is an excellent view of Hong Kong Island from Kowloon (especially at night). This is also where you will find the Temple Street Night Market and Ladies Market (100+ stalls of clothing, accessories, and souvenirs).
STAR FERRY - The Star Ferry offers a fun way to get from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon via a 10-minute ferry ride. If you’re up for a more scenic route, take a harbour cruise, which is best in the evening when you can see the magnificent skyline in all its glory.
A SYMPHONY OF LIGHTS - This multimedia show lights up Hong Kong every night at 8:00 pm using searchlights, lasers, and LEDs. The best vantage points are from Kowloon or aboard a harbour ferry.
SKY100 OBSERVATION DECK - On a clear day, this viewing deck on the 100th floor of Hong Kong’s tallest tower, ICC, offers incredible 360 degree views of the city.
THE PEAK - When you Google Hong Kong, most of the pictures you see were likely taken from The Peak, the highest point on the Island. Although the tram is currently closed for repair, you can still get there via taxi or bus. Highly recommend going on a clear day if possible!
HIKING - The city’s many hills, mountains, and parks make it a great destination for hiking. From easy to difficult and short to long, there are endless hiking trails to choose from across Hong Kong’s islands. The most well-known hike is Dragon’s Back in Shek-O, offering spectacular views of southern Hong Kong Island and its shoreline. It’s a relatively easy hike (to access and to complete), and ends at a beautiful beach.
PLACES TO EAT
Dim sum is a MUST when in Hong Kong!
Tim Ho Wan is my favorite, and is known as the cheapest Michelin starred meal in the world. The restaurant is known for its BBQ pork buns (char siu) which are baked and not steamed, providing a crispy exterior and a fluffy, gooey interior.
For the old school vibe (think large ballroom, white tablecloths, dim sum carts, no English-speakers), try Maxim’s Palace, located on the second floor of City Hall. If you’re inexperienced in the dim sum department, be prepared to try dishes you’ve likely never seen or heard of before.
Sichuan cuisine happens to be my husband’s favorite meal in Hong Kong. There are plenty of options from casual to fancy, but our go-to is San Xi Lou, located in the Mid-levels. The menu offers a la carte ordering or traditional hot pot - we prefer to order a la carte so we can feast on their best dish, Sichuan style stewed fish with (a plethora of) spicy peppers.
Anything owned by Black Sheep Restaurant Group (my personal favorites are Ho Lee Fook and Chom Chom).
If brunch is your thing, you’re in luck. Hong Kong is known for its wide variety of popular brunch spots, but be aware that most require bookings far in advance. One of my favorites is Zuma, an upscale Japanese restaurant with a seafood and sushi buffet like you’ve never seen before. There’s also an option for bottomless champagne, sake, and/or cocktails.
Take a look at my Hong Kong restaurant list for additional options. Be sure to set your dining plans before you travel as most restaurants require reservations as they are very small and fill up fast!
WHERE TO DRINK
HK is home to a collection of award-winning bars that are known globally. There is a plethora of options and you can’t go wrong here. My only must in this category is to make sure you visit a rooftop terrace/patio at some point during your visit!
Ozone, the world’s highest bar sits atop the Ritz Carlton in Kowloon (across Victoria Harbour). You can easily get there via the MTR, taxi, or even by taking the Star Ferry across.
SoHo and Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) are home to hundreds of bars (and restaurants) and are located just up the hill from Central. The area has great walkability providing a perfect opportunity to bar hop if you want to check out the night scene in Hong kong.
The Armoury at Tai Kwun is a great spot to visit for a unique outdoor courtyard bar scene. Tai Kwun is the former police headquarters that was renovated and now serves as a centre for arts and culture. It’s home to restaurants, shops, bars, and hosts a variety of art exhibitions throughout the year.
The Murray Hotel in Central has one of my favorite bars, Popinjays. The wraparound terrace provides a unique vantage point of the city and serves up delicious cocktails and a variety of bar snacks.
A few other popular bars on Hong Kong Island include: Iron Fairies, Ophelia, The Quinary, and The Optimist.
Good luck and enjoy your visit to Hong Kong! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact me here.